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We find that tuning is either done really well on the cars that come in the shop, or done really badly. Today with fuel limitations we all have to be careful on where the timing gets set, what air/fuel ratio is set, and aware of all the other things, such as torque converter stall speed, that make a car run correctly.
We use wide band oxygen sensor equipment to make sure your fuel injection or carburetion is set properly, and with it we can nail the idle, transition, and main metering to obtain maximum performance with maximum economy. The tools of choice at this time are from Innovate Motor Sports (www.tuneyourengine.com). Their stuff really works and they are really supportive to those of us who are trying to get things right.
Carburetor and distributor manufacturers send their parts out in cardboard boxes and these parts have no idea what they are going to be bolted onto. So the manufacturers do the right thing and send the carbs out really rich, and the distributors out with very conservative advance curves. They do that to keep you from exploding your new engine, and they expect you to adjust them according to your particular application. But most people don’t do that, they bolt the parts on, turn the distributor until the engine runs, and turn the idle speed screw until the engine runs in gear. If you have an engine where the idle mixture screws don’t seem to work then you may need to come by so we can get you straightened out
We can also tune most of the aftermarket fuel injection systems out there, but we prefer John Meaney’s Big Stuff 3 (www.bigstuff3.com). You can buy a system here, get it installed, get a one-off custom intake built for your jewel if that’s something you’d like , then get it tuned and ready to go down the road.
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